Anthony Vaccarello's second outing as creative director for Saint Laurent, the Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, presented a compelling paradox: a harmonious blend of aggressively cool, social media-ready pieces alongside impeccably crafted, timeless staples. This duality, far from being a weakness, became the collection's defining characteristic, showcasing Vaccarello's masterful ability to navigate the complexities of the modern luxury landscape while remaining deeply rooted in the house's legacy. The show, a pivotal moment in the evolution of the Saint Laurent brand under his direction, continues to resonate today, informing subsequent collections and influencing fashion trends long after its debut. While this article focuses primarily on the Fall 2017 show, we will also explore its context within the broader landscape of YSL's ongoing trajectory, hinting at the potential directions we might see in future collections – perhaps even YSL fw24 (Fall/Winter 2024) and beyond.
The Fall 2017 collection wasn't a mere continuation of Vaccarello's debut; it was a refinement, a deepening of his vision for the house. His inaugural collection had been a bold statement, a sharp departure from the more bohemian aesthetic that preceded him. Fall 2017, however, demonstrated a greater understanding of Saint Laurent's DNA, a more nuanced integration of his own signature style with the brand's rich history. This wasn't about simply reimagining the past; it was about building upon it, creating something new and exciting while honoring the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent himself.
One of the most striking aspects of the show was the juxtaposition of contrasting elements. On one hand, there were the undeniably Instagrammable pieces: the sharply tailored jackets with exaggerated shoulders, the thigh-high boots that became instant icons, the sleek, body-con mini dresses that exuded both confidence and a touch of rebelliousness. These were clothes designed to be seen, to be shared, to generate buzz on social media platforms – a crucial aspect of the contemporary fashion landscape that Vaccarello expertly understood and utilized. These outfits, meticulously crafted and impeccably styled, were far from fleeting trends; they possessed a certain timelessness, a quality that transcended the ephemeral nature of social media trends.
On the other hand, the collection also showcased a range of exquisitely made, understated basics. These were the pieces that spoke to the enduring appeal of Saint Laurent's craftsmanship and attention to detail. Think perfectly tailored trousers, crisp white shirts, and impeccably cut blazers – garments that, while seemingly simple, were imbued with a level of sophistication and quality that only comes from years of experience and dedication to the craft. This balance between the bold and the understated was a masterclass in design, demonstrating Vaccarello's ability to cater to a diverse range of tastes and styles within a single collection.
The color palette further enhanced this duality. The collection featured a range of deep, rich colors like black, navy, and burgundy, which provided a sophisticated backdrop for the more flamboyant pieces. These darker hues were interspersed with flashes of brighter colors, creating a sense of visual excitement and dynamism. The overall effect was one of controlled chaos, a deliberate juxtaposition of contrasting elements that created a powerful and memorable visual impact.
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